We are honored to meet Paul Girard, founder of Champagne Girard-Bonnet. Girard-Bonnet Champagne boasts 12 hectares of vineyards located in the Le Mesnil sur Oger and Oger regions, both certified Grand Cru estates, and the Vertus region, which is a Premier Cru estate. In a passionate conversation, Paul shared with us his experiences, beliefs, and upcoming projects.
Share your winemaking journey with us. What has your experience been like in the brewing industry? What inspired you to establish Girard-Bonnet Winery?
I earned dual master's degrees in wine management and an advanced diploma in Oenology and Viticulture. Although I had mastered all the knowledge on paper, I had very little practical experience until I worked for a year at Champagne Vauversin. There, I witnessed every aspect of the Champagne production process firsthand. Since 2012, Wafferson Champagne has been certified organic and uses only Chardonnay from Côte des Blancs. This experience allowed me to accumulate valuable knowledge and put it into practice. The winery owner also generously shared many tips on the organic Champagne production process.
However, in my view, every vineyard is unique, and so is every cellar. Therefore, even if I use exactly the same approach as Laurent, my wines will have their own unique character. So, I began exploring each vineyard plot, my cellar, and my barrels on my own. For me, conveying my philosophy and the emotions I hope to share through my wine is crucial. This requires annual testing, and every effort helps improve accuracy. Although my parents mainly focused on vineyard work and maintained exemplary organic farming practices, they did not delve deeply into cellar techniques. Therefore, my mission is clear: I need to uncover the nuances of our vineyard plots.
Congratulations on receiving Demeter certification! Given the climate conditions in recent years, what challenges and rewards are faced in adopting organic and biodynamic planting methods in vineyards?
Adopting organic and biodynamic methods faces challenges every year. Natural protective measures are less effective against mold and powdery mildew than chemical products. Perhaps some years we won't harvest any grapes; We are prepared to handle this possibility. However, this is also a philosophy. We do not use chemicals when growing grapes, which benefits not only Champagne lovers but also our employees and ourselves. If we can make champagne naturally, everyone will benefit—the planet and all humanity. Of course, this requires a lot of labor, and the same tasks require more manpower, but we feel our vineyards are becoming more self-sufficient. It can better resist pests, and biodiversity provides natural pest protection; Beneficial species can fend off harmful species. Grape yields are more balanced, resulting in better ripeness and richer aromas. I can feel the energy and expression contained in the juice.
Tell us about your taste preferences. What kind of dishes do you like to eat? What type of wine do you like to drink?
It's simple—I appreciate beautiful things. I find joy in food and drinks that truly pursue excellence. When a chef finds a farmer dedicated to growing the finest vegetables and skillfully incorporates them into the dishes, how can you not cherish that experience? Sharing such moments with family and friends not only enhances enjoyment but also creates lasting memories.
What foods do you recommend to pair with Girard-Bonnet A Mi-Chemin champagne?
In terms of food pairing, I found White Hill Chardonnay to be delicate and refined, fresh and pleasant, with a hint of shyness. It pairs perfectly with aperitifs, seafood, or white meats like chicken. Additionally, its acidity enhances the aroma, making it an ideal choice for sushi.
We noticed you were using Sydonios wine glasses. Is this your favorite wine glass? How do you think Sydonios glasses reflect the character of your wines?
I like Sydonios because, like me, it's a relatively new brand, founded around 2018. All their glassware is meticulously crafted using traditional hand-blown techniques, ensuring impeccable quality. As mentioned earlier, the Chardonnay from Côte des Blancs itself is not very expressive, so precision in the glassware is crucial. I especially enjoy tasting champagne in a Universal glass and still wine in a L'Esthète glass. Interestingly, I remember the founder of Sydonios was originally from Reims!
Could you share whether there are any new blends in Girard-Bonnet's upcoming vintages?
Excitingly, new wines are planned for 2024. Champagne making is a process that requires patience and is quite challenging at the start. I have to build up my stock, so now I only offer vintage champagne. Nevertheless, I embarked on this journey six years ago in 2018, and now it's time to launch my first vintage! My permanent reserve at Le Mesnil sur Oger is finally ready, and I also plan to launch a non-vintage Premier cru Champagne. For now, I will keep the details confidential; In a few months, you'll have the chance to learn all the information.
You are hailed as one of the rising stars of the new generation of Champagne winemakers. How do you think your working style differs from traditional wineries and pioneering growers in the Champagne region?
As for whether I am considered one of the rising stars in the Champagne world, I can't be sure. I have always focused on making the highest quality wines possible. I haven't introduced breakthrough winemaking or vineyard techniques. Instead, my approach focuses on understanding how the vines work and maintaining their natural health. In the cellar, I use minimal interventions to preserve the essence of the grapes. The main difference may lie in my unwavering drive. If a method demands more but can enhance the health of the vines, I would gladly accept it. I am always committed to improving the quality of wine, often revisiting traditional methods, such as tending the soil in the vineyard or using oak barrels in the cellar.
I've been thinking about what I can do next and how to improve.