Freshly graduated from the Lycée Viticole of Beaune in the summer of 2015, the young and talented Benoît Doussot devised the micro-négoce project Clandestin with Bertrand Gautherot of Vouette & Sorbee. The pair used to make champagnes in a converted barn next door to the Vouette & Sorbée cellar, in Buxières-sur-Arce. Fast forward ten years, Benoît is now flying solo. He’s based in the village of Landreville, where he completed the construction of a state-of-the-art winery in 2023, and sources grapes from 11 vignerons in the Côte des Bar.
Clandestin aims to showcase the different geological strata of the Côte des Bar: Kimmeridgian and Portlandian, both part of the Jurassic period and geologically similar to those found in Chablis – in contrast to the chalkier soils of the Vallée de la Marne, which are predominantly from the younger Cretaceous period. Kimmeridgian soils are rich in marl and marine fossils, lending the wines tension and finesse, while the purer limestone of the Portlandian tends to produce broader, more structured wines.
Benoît works closely with partner vignerons and purchases only organically grown grapes. The project encourages respectful viticulture by supporting growers in their conversion to organic practices and by valuing their work – allowing them to taste the final result of their labour, rather than seeing their fruit absorbed into unremarkable blends by the Marne-based big houses.
The winery was designed over two floors to allow gravity-fed operations, ensuring gentle handling of the wines. Long, spontaneous fermentations begin in temperature-controlled vats and continue in barrels. The still wines are aged for twelve months in oak, before spending another winter 'en masse' in vats. After the second fermentation, ageing 'sur lattes' typically lasts for 15 months.
Benoît grew up in Beaune and trained with Jean-Philippe Fichet while studying. His precision and Burgundian sensibility have helped him swiftly master vinification and ageing 'sous bois' – he favours older 500-600ltr barrels over the 228ltr 'pièces bourguignonnes' which promote reduction and minimise the need for SO2. "It does keep the wines chiselled and enhances purity", Benoît explains.
